Sense and Sensibility : Beyond Manila
Bambi Harper
Inquirer News Service
BEYOND THE Batangas cove were Lobo and Galban, where great traces of mines well known in other times remained but now bore little fruit. It was an area rich in cotton, palms and rice. The king had a cordage factory there that made black hemp processed in Cabite for the rigging of the galleons. Under this jurisdiction fell Calilaya or Tayabas, extending to the Bondo Peninsula up to Mauban.
Beyond Batangas was the province of Camarines where the towns of Bondo, Passacao, Ibalon and Bula were found and where the galleon Encarnacion returning from Mexico was wrecked in 1649. There was a port and a shipyard in Sosocon or Bagatao where the big galleons were made. Albay even then was a big cove outside the channel with a tall volcanic mountain. Coming from Mexico, Mayon Volcano was visible to ships from afar because of the flames and smoke that it usually exhaled.
Along the range were springs of hot water and one that whatever fell inside -- be it a piece of wood, a bone or a leaf -- was converted to stone. Gov. Francisco Tello was gifted with a crab that had turned to stone. Caceres was founded by Gov. Francisco de Sande, the second governor of the Philippines. The Bishop had his cathedral and See in what was known as Nueva Caceres. Beside it was Naga, whose coast gave shelter to the galleons and it was there that the San Diego anchored in 1650 coming from port.
After Caceres came the province of Camarines up to Paracale, where the natives mined for gold and other metals and a fine stone called iman, famous in antiquity as mentioned by Ptolemy. It was a big province and enjoyed beautiful plains, with forests and palms that yielded large amounts of oil for the royal factories in Cabite.
The capital of the province of Cagayan was the city of Nueva Segovia founded by Gov. Gonzalo Ronquillo, where the bishop had his seat and cathedral. It was situated on the banks of the great river of Cagayan, which was born in the mountains of Santor in la Pampanga and crossed nearly the whole province. The Spaniards called it Tajo, after the river in Spain.
Along the banks of the river was a Spanish infantry presidio constructed of cal y canto (lime and stone) in some parts and wood and gabion in others with four divisions of cavalry. ("Soil erosion is an ever present problem and gabions have proved to be a lasting solution around the world. The earliest known use of gabion-type structures was for bank protection along the Nile River during the era of the Pharaoh. In the subsequent 7,000 years since its initial use by the Egyptians, the gabion system has evolved from baskets of woven reeds to engineered containers manufactured from wire mesh. The lasting appeal of gabions lies in their inherent flexibility. Gabion structures yield to earth movement but maintain full efficiency and remain structurally sound.") Cagayan was the frontier of the Irayas, rebel inhabitants of the area who lived in the skirts of the tall sierras.
The farthest north of all the capes was the one called Engaño, a landscape tormented by the north winds. It was open and treacherous because of its great currents. It was here that the galleon S. Luis was wrecked in 1646, after failing to round the cape and take shelter in a port where two years earlier she had taken refuge upon returning from Mexico. In 1639, two galleons were anchored in this cape when a furious northern wind rose and in a few hours tore them both to pieces.
The province of Cagayan ended in Cape Boxeador where the province of Ilocos began. The whole province was fertile but unprotected from the tormenting northern winds. The forests yielded wax, red wood called Brasil in Europe, ebony and other much esteemed lumber. Her savannas were full of deer that were hunted for their pelts, which were brought to Japan and other parts. There were plenty of gold and carnelians, polished and carved with much care. These were not local but had been brought in olden days from India in exchange for gold.
Ilocos was considered the richest area and most populated outside Manila. It was founded in 1574 by Gov. Guido de Lavezares, who named it Villa Fernandina in honor of Philip II's son.
In 1623, a contingent went up the mountains to pacify the Igorots, and it took them seven days or three leagues a day to climb to the top. Along the way, they passed many forests of walnuts and wild nutmegs and later forests of pines. Finally they reached the top of the ridge where the Igorot tribes had their principal settlement because of the rich mines of gold that they traded with the Ilocanos and Pangasinanes in exchange for supplies, food, clothes and other necessities. Besides gold, the province produced much rice and cotton from which thick blankets were woven that they called "de Ilocos" and used as sails for the galleons and uniforms for servants as well other curious textiles of many colors.
The next province was Pangasinan, which had much the same products. In the coast of this province was the port of Bolinao and Playa Honda, famous in Spain because of the victory of the Spanish armada against the Dutch.
Then came Pampanga with very fertile soil and abundant rice due to the many streams that bathed it. It supplied timber for the shipyards of Cabite, which was very convenient for the Spaniards since its mountains were within the bay near the port and without risk from enemies or typhoons.
(Data from P. Francisco Colin, "Labor Evangelico," 1660 annotated by Fr. P. Pastells, 1904)
